Manus x Machina
Embroidery, featherwork, lacework, leatherwork and artificial flowers as well as the traditional divisions of a couture house are explored througout the entire display which consists of 170 pieces, and superimposes creations of designers who mostly use technological resources like Nicholas Ghesquiere, Issey Miyake, Karl Lagerfeld and Iris van Herpen. antagonistic to those like Prada, Saint Laurent, Cristobal Balenciaga and Dior who focus on manual labor.
|Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen|
|Burtons created the scale-type pagé with little feathers made out of metall which were cut, carved and shaped by hand|
The main goal is to achieve that spectator is able to see the evolution of the industry starting from the sewing machine to new technologies such as laser cutting, computer modeling, ultrasonic welding and 3D printing.
In essence, the exhibition unfolds as a contemporary adaptation of the Encyclopedie and tries to make the viewer reflect about the new processes that challenge traditions,
Today, making a garment using technology can result in a process equally or even more challenging than the one made entirely by hand.
|Yuxtaposition in white. White dresses against a solely computer designed and then 3D printed ensamble by Iris Harpen|
As mentioned by Andrew Bolton himself, the curator of this magnificent display:
"I wanted to challenge the assumption hand in front of the machine. You always think that the hand is representative of superiority or luxury, the machine is lower. However, sometimes a garment produced by a machine carries a much slower and more complex process. "