Paris Couture Week Fall 2016

12:00 AM Roberta W. P. F 1 Comments



I feel like this seasons shows had similar inspirations. Most, living van Harpen and Elie Saab aside, did formal wear. Givenchy and Chanel presented a great amount of suits with different approaches, while Chanel reinvented the 80’s dramatic look, Givenchy made a statement with more flamboyant designs involving lots of embellishment details and heavy fabrics. Elie Saab and Armani both seem to agree that velvet will make its comeback regarding night wear. And even tough they all have different styles, from GV to Elie Saab color palettes include all white, lilac, burgundy, military green, navy and black as if they all had decided together what fall would look like next year. Continue reading for a little review on my favourite collections.  

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
When I hear Giambattista Valli, the first thing I think is always TULLE (like the black dress on the first picture). Inevitably, everything that he creates with that magical fabric makes us sigh because with the ethereal beauty of every single one of his creations. But this season he made us fell in love not only with tulle, but with a look that evoked a Renaissance essence highlighting Elizabethan collars mounted on lace details and transparencies embelished with Cameos and oversized jewels.  
This collection brings together magic and femininity with a slight touch of goth adding an almost rocker vibe a la Prince in Purple Rain.

GIVENCHY

If we could merge a suit and an armor it would look like this. 
What I love about Riccardo Tisci is the fact that he injects boldness to feminity without making it look harsh but rather strong.


CHANEL
This time, the Kaiser of fashion decided that with his scenery he wanted to show the world who made everything we adore from Chanel. That way he moved every member of the atelier’s staff along with their dummies, sewing machines, cutting tables, fabrics and embroidery materials from La Rue Cambon to the Grand Palais bringing the creating process to the audience instead of just a finished product.
Matching the working environment, the collection made me think of working women in fancy tailored suits, but from the 80’s… You know, oversized coats, big shoulder pads and heavy eye makeup. A trip down to fashion memory lane modernized by the technology used to make each piece fit the body perfectly. Karl is always innovating.

ARMANI PRIVÉ

If anybody would ask me what Armani Privé means I would simply answer: “Epitome of style” because Armani Privé embodies what every single fashion loving girl dreams to be wearing one day once she has defined her style. Perfectly fitted, simple cut, immaculately tasteful and elegant. Sophisticated, classy and yet never dull.                   One day.. Oh,one day…


ELIE SAAB
While Armani took a sober approach on velvet… Elie Saab decided it needed a little something something to make it shine and added crystals. MAGIC

IRIS VAN HARPEN

Inspired by sound waves, Iris van Harpen created a collection that made me think of the Manus x Machina exhibit at the MET. Every single one of her creations for the season deserves a place among hers at the museum. But the interesting are not the designs but the way they were made using new techniques and materials like silicone-coated handblown miniature glass bubbles with water drop Swarovski crystals or 3D printed plastic. The colors, finishes, the artisanal work involved in, for example, draping such materials and creating optical illusions make her probably one of the most avant-garde designers whose sci-fi a like garnments are MAJESTIC.

R. Woodworth

1 comment:

  1. Holaaa.. Tanto tiempo sin pasar por aqui!! Felicidades y sigue adelante!!
    Tu fan 1.5!! Jajaja
    Saludos
    Magda Cortez

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